 |

| BREEDING
RECIPE |
The
breeding process can be simplified into a few steps: pre-breeding
feeding, cool down, introductions and mating, warm up,
ovulation, pre-egg laying shed, and egg laying or deposition.
Prior to breeding season, ball pythons must be well fed.
Especially females. Generating eggs is a taxing process
for females and it consumes a stunning amount of body
weight. If your females don’t have adequate body
mass going into breeding season, either one of two things
will happen: they won’t produce or they will throw
slugs.
I plan all my pairings prior to cool down. Check out the
breeding program article for more information on this
topic. Normally, my snakes have a hot spot of approximately
90° F available during all hours of the day. Ambient
room temperature is normally in the mid to upper seventies.
I start cooling my snakes in the early part of October.
I put my heating elements on timers and stick to a “12
hours on, 12 hours off” schedule. During the day
the basking spots are on and are allowed to get to their
normal temperature of 90° F. At night the basking
spots are off and the animals’ enclosure drops to
ambient room temperature. During cool down, which coincides
with winter, the ambient room temperature is in the lower
to mid seventies. The lights in the room are also put
on a schedule to simulate reduced winter daylight.
Introductions and mating take place during the cool down
phase. Two weeks after I start cool down, I start placing
males in females’ cages. Males generally stay in
a female’s enclosure for 24 to 36 hours. The male
then comes out and is placed with the next female or is
given a couple of days rest. If females are receptive
at this time, copulation will occur and the snakes may
remain locked up for quite some time. If copulation does
not occur then I keep moving the male through his rotation.
Breeding season lasts for four or more months so there
is plenty of time for him to get the job done.
Warm up starts in February when the heat in the enclosure
is put back on continuously. Most of my females are bred
by this time and a few may have ovulated (most likely
due to subtle changes in ambient temperatures). However,
ovulation usually occurs in the weeks after returning
to the warm up schedule. Once ovulation occurs, the male’s
job is done. Females swell from about halfway point to
the last third of their body during ovulation. It looks
like they ate a huge meal. This swelling can last as long
as 24 hours. Breeding serves no purpose after ovulation
and won’t occur if the female truly did ovulate.
Approximately 30 days after ovulation, the female will
enter a shed cycle. This shedding is an important one
– it lets you know when eggs are due. The female
enters a shed, which may last 7 – 14 days, but the
date of the actual shed is the important day. Egg laying
occurs about 25 to 30 days from the shedding day. |
| |
    
|
home
| client access | about | ball bits
| collection | potential
offspring | incubating | available
| contact
©
2008
Joe Compel Reptiles. All Rights Reserved.
|
 |